Bele perestalo byt «nizhnim»
V odnom iz svoikh monologov Emi Shumer proiznosit takuyu frazu — as naked as you can tolerate (bukvalno, «nastolko golaya, naskolko mozhesh vyterpet»). Emi tam rassuzhdaet pro zhenskuyu samootsenku, my sobiraemsya govorit o belevom stile (to est, o mode na obnazhenku), i tsitata eta kak by zadaet ton predstoyashchego razgovora.
Bele davno vybralos iz-pod pokryval na ulitsy, trend rastsvel v 90-e. Seychas, kogda v mode pravit nostalgiya po 90-m, on perezhivaet renessans. U tendentsii desyatki gradatsiy — ot skromnosti k otkrovennosti. I kakuyu iz nikh vybrat zavisit isklyuchitelno ot togo, naskolko obnazhennuyu versiyu sebya vy gotovy sdyuzhit.
V 1993 godu Keyt Moss prodemonstrirovala, naverno, vysshuyu stepen otkrovennosti, kogda libo vidannoy prilichnym obshchestvom. Ona prishla na vecherinku modelnogo agentstva Elite v sovershenno prozrachnom plate-kombinatsii iz perlamutrovoy organzy, s prosvechivayushchimi skvoz nego trusami, i, fakticheski, obnazhennoy grudyu. Etot vykhod navsegda ostanetsya v istorii belevogo stilya i mody voobshche. To bylo vremya kombinatsiy — Sofiya Koppola, Vaynona Rayder, Gvinet Peltrou, Naomi Kempbell, Kortni Lav, Kerolayn Merfi i drugie znamenitye zhenshchiny, nosivshie ikh i v pir i v mir, tomu posposobstvovali.
Sredi dizaynerov glavnym zakonodatelem mody na bele byl Martin Marzhela. Beskonechnye otsylki k ispodnemu v kollektsiyakh belgiytsa nakhodili samye raznye proyavleniya — ot namerennoy demonstratsii belya (znamenitye vodolazki s nashitymi na nikh lifchikami) do ego maskirovki pod povsednevnuyu odezhdu i polnogo otsutstviya.
Segodnya mnogochislennye posledovateli Marzhely regulyarno povtoryayut eti tryuki, v tom chisle i ego priemnik Dzhon Galyano — telesnye bodi so strochkoy naruzhu i vyrezy na odezhde v samykh nepredskazuemykh mestakh dovolno krasnorechivy. Sredi drugikh adeptov belevoy temy — splosh populyarnye dizaynery i brendy: Glenn Martens iz Y/Project, Virdzhinii Ablo iz Off-White, Helmut Lang raboty Sheyna Olivera, Celine Fibi Faylo, Marin Serr, duet ukrainskikh dizaynerov Chakshyn i gruzin Irakliy Rusadze, osnovatel marki Situationist, vse do edinogo minimalisty — ot The Row i Theory do Staud. Spisok mozhno prodolzhat beskonechno. Seychas prodemonstriruem na neskolkikh primerakh, kak samostoyatelno voplotit ideyu v zhizn.
Bodi (ili korset) i ispodnyaya yubka
Takoy komplekt — alternativa platyu-kombinatsii. Khorosh s izyashchnoy obuvyu (togo trebuet legkiy podol yubki) i bleyzerom muzhskogo fasona. Tonkie belevye materii i pastelnye tsveta vsegda vyigryvayut na fone chego-to maskulinnogo. Zhenstvennaya sumka iz busin podcherkivaet zhenstvennost obraza.
Obraz ot MARK.MODA: bleyzer SAINT LAURENT, bodi MAISON MARGIELA, yubka SIMONE ROCHA, sumka SHRIMPS, obuv H&M
Rozovaya kombinatsiya
Kanonicheskiy element belevogo stilya — kombinatsiya tsveta tela ili rumyan. Eto klassika, s kotoroy mozhno smelo eksperimentirovat — naprimer, nadet ee s krossovkami. Myagko struyashcheesya palto-khalat — idealno dopolnit plate zimoy. Letom obnazhayte plechi bez zazreniya sovesti.
Obraz ot MARK.MODA: palto MANSUR GAVRIEL, plate WALK OF SHAME, krossovki GUCCI, sumka LOEWE
Kostyum na goloe telo
Kak uzhe bylo skazano vyshe, mnimoe otsutstvie belya na polozhennom meste tozhe mozhno schitat proyavleniem belevoy estetiki, potomu chto nevolno nachinaesh gadat, est ono vse-taki ili net, i kuda moglo zapropastitsya. Nadevaya kostyum pastelnogo ottenka bez byustgaltera (ili s byustgalterom, kotoryy ne vidno), vy sozdaete intrigu i avtomaticheski privlekaete bolshe vnimaniya. Komu eto po dushe — smelo berite priem na vooruzhenie.
Obraz ot MARK.MODA: bleyzer ALEXANDER MCQUEEN, bryuki ALEXANDER MCQUEEN, tufli BALENCIAGA, sumka LOEWE
Bele poverkh odezhdy
Nasledie Martina Marzhely, kotoroe mnogikh smushchaet i ochen zrya. Takoy pikantnyy element, kak lifchik (khvatit dazhe ego ochertaniy) na vodolazke ili rubashke delaet obraz neveroyatno soblaznitelnym, sovershenno ne obnazhaya telo. Oblegayushchiy top s povyazannym sverkhu na maner bra platkom — nakhodka Marin Serr. Dobavte yarkuyu belevuyu yubku i klogi — poluchite zhenstvennyy i neveroyatno modnyy komplekt na vesnu.
Obraz ot MARK.MODA: dzhemper MARINE SERRE, yubka ZARA, klogi MARNI, klatch BURBERRY
